That would allow viewing at right angles similar to the articulating LCD.RICOH IMAGING COMPANY, LTD. Too bad the T3i pentaprism can’t be removed and a knife edge focusing screen inserted with magnifying eyepiece as in the old Nikon F bodies. This would of be used for the case where there are no bright stars in the vicinity where liveview might not be sensitive enough. So insert the knifeedge eyepiece then focus, then insert the Camera body. I was also thinking of making a knife edge focusing eyepiece parafocal with the T3i body. I will also be using the T3i for daytime shots of the sun through a 5” Mak-Cass with Baader filter and the articulating LCD screen should come in handy for those high zenith sun shots. One of the reasons for getting the T3i was the use of liveview for focusing and the articulating LCD screen that makes things high in the sky easier to see when used on my Mak-cass or C14. There are some little secrets you need to know to use Live View for focusing an astrophoto. (BTW, BackyardEOS running looped preview exposures is functionally the same as Nebulosity's "Frame and Focus" mode, and the newest pre-release Nebulosity versions support live-view, so you can use either program really, but the above two methods are what I have found to be the easiest ways to get accurate focus) Go back to Frame and Focus mode to fine-tune object framing.īoth these methods work well, but the Bahtinov method works faster and is reliably accurate. Focus using the two metrics provided by Fine Focus. Without Bahtinov mask: Nebulosity2, use Frame and Focus mode to rough-center desired object, switch to Fine Focus mode using a medium brightness star (not saturated, if brightness starts at or gets to 65535 your star is too bright). To frame slew to object and loop 1s - 10s preview exposures while adjusting the mount. Center star and focus via bahtinov pattern. With a Bahtinov mask and bright star, BackyardEOS in zoomed Live-View mode. In that case the Nebulosity Fine Focus method works well.įor myself this is the order of preference for focus and framing when using my 1000D If you do *not* have a Bahtinov mask then live-view, even with BackyardEOS's FWHM measure, is hard to get. You then lock down the focus (if you can) and slew to your actual target, from there you can take short 1s, 2s, 10s, 30s exposures (whatever is needed) to get your target framed up correctly. If you have a Bahtinov mask for your telescope or camera lens you can point your telescope at one of those bright stars and very quickly get an accurate focus. However, this does not mean live-view is not useful. This is because in order to produce a "live" video view it is forced to take a series of short exposures, and you can simply only see so much with 1/30th or 1/15th second exposures! Another thing to keep in mind that if your focus is far out even with a very bright star live-view will not see anything - you need to be at least close-ish to focus for the star to show up. I use Nebulosity 2's frame and focus because it takes actual photos and I review each one as the next one is shot in order to get my focus or focus on a faint object.Īm I doing something wrong? I has the ISO cranked on LiveView, but even the brightest star is invisible.Īs Tom already pointed out live-view can see only a few of the brightest stars in the sky. I've used EOS Utility and I've used Backyard EOS's frame and focus through LiveView on my PC but I can never see anything. I have tried using LiveView with my T1i and 7D but I can't see anything to focus on. Since it is not, we have to work with what is provided to It were a dedicated astro camera, I could see the point, I suspect other people prefer itĪs well, which is why they make it that way. With an X-Nite CC-1 filter) I prefer the viewfinder. For daylight photography (I used the 500D One of the reasons they leave modding the filter to Market to them, no matter how well they seem to work for Keep in mind, though, since Canon's main market is forĭaylight photography buyers, we are a small segment of the With LiveView and EOS Utility, I can without a mask, since Still you justĬan't get critcal focus with it without a Bahtinov mask. Not sure what is going on with yours.Īs to the original poster's question, I find for roughįocusing it helps using the viewfinder. Trapezium stars in M42, which I'm able to see the 4īrightest. The faintest I've been able to use are the Three DSLRs I've owned with LiveView (1000D, 450D, andĬurrent 500D). The brightest stars should be visible, have been on the
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